BX August 24, 1917

A Visit to Canterbury – Pte. Isaac Hewitson Late of the 215th Battalion, Tells Interestingly of a Trip to the Locale of Chaucer’s Tales – Relics on Every Hand

August 4, 1917

On the third anniversary of the war, Aug. 4, it was my privilege to visit one of the most ancient spots in dear old England. Every step brought new or rather old scenes before me and every inch full of interest. After leaving the station I passed through the old Roman wall which forms the main entrance into the city – the large gateway in the centre for vehicles, and the small arches on each side for pedestrians. On passing through I met a soldier in funeral procession.  It was very sad to see his comrades with rifles turned muzzles downwards. The band was composed chiefly of boys in their teens in khaki. Behind the gun carriage which was profusely decorated with flowers was a number of old warriors dressed in civilian clothes and decorated with medals. High Street is long and narrow and full of twists and turns, with houses close together, each one  different in shape and color with mores underneath the houses, on top are hanging. On this street is the famous Fleur-de-Lis Hotel, the oldest in the city or in England, dating back to the 13th century. Charles Dickens made it his headquarters when he visited Canterbury. My next visit was the museum full of historic armor plates, swords and other relics of ancient wars. Passing on I went round a corner and uncertain where I would arrive as streets were running in all directions, I came up to the old market, after looking around for a while.

Canterbury Cathedral

I then passed through massive masonry known as Christchurch gateway. This brought me in view of the famous cathedral, whose history is so largely bound up with the history of England. Unfortunately it is too near for its magnificent proportions to be taken in at a glance. It was begun in 1070 and has continually undergone renovations. The greatest even probably in its history which has caused it to be one of the most sacred spots in all Christendom was the death of Thos. A. Beckett, who was murdered in 1170 and his body placed in the crypt. At the entrance in the porch is an altar surmounted by a crucifix and placed between the figures of St. John and the Virgin, which is known as Transept of Martyrdom. Cards were placed on chairs announcing when a service was being held and [?] was requested. At the extreme end of the building is the choir room with its magnificent electric organ containing 96 miles of wire and upward of a hundred stops. It was a pleasure to sit and listen to the music, chanting and singing, sounding as though it were from angelic hosts. The nave is 220 feet long and 72 feet broad. There are nine bays on each side with aisles. On the pillars are a large number of flags, the various colors of Canadian battalions. Waiting here till the service was over I then joined the part who were conducted through the cathedral accompanied by a guide. Soldiers were allowed free of charge. We were escorted to the beautiful memorial of Archbishop Benson, represented in a recumbent attitude with hands together. Next we passed through huge iron gates into the warriors chapel containing the tombs of Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands, the Duke of Clarence and the Earl of Somerset, half brother of Henry. It also contains the tomb of Stephen Langton, who won for us more than any other man the Magna Carta, the bust of Sir George Rooke, the admiral who captured Gibraltar in 1704 and the monument of Sir Thos. Thornhurst. Next we visited the Trinity Chapel approached by a broad flight of stairs which is probably the most interesting part of the building. It contains the gorgeous shrine of St. Thomas, which was the centre of adoration for centuries. The huge stone stairs are much worn by the thousands of pilgrims who walked them on their hands and knees. Following the guide the next place of interest was the Transept of Martyrdom where we were shown a small square stone in the floor which is supposed to mark the exact spot where Thos. A. Beckett fell when murdered. The small stone is inserted in the pavement in place of a portion taken out and sent to Rome. His body was hurled in the crypt where Henry II afterwards did penance for the crime from which his conscience could not leave him.

From here we were led into the quire, which is the longest in England, measuring 180 feet, and approaching from the nave by a noble flight of stairs. The throne carved by Flemish workmen, cost £1,200. The tombs in the choir are those of Cardinal Kemp, Archbishop Stratford, and two others who officiated at the coronation of Edward IV. Richard III and Henry VII. Our next visit was into the altar of St. Thomas, where the long furrows in the purple pavement still mark the exact limit to which the pilgrims advanced. The lower part of the shrine was of stone supported by arches, when sick and lame pilgrims were allowed to rub their rheumatic backs or diseased legs and arms against the marble which brought them into the nearest contact with the wonder working body within. On the north side of the chapel is the tomb of Henry IV and his Queen, on the south that of the Black Prince. Above a recumbent figure of a great warrior may be seen, his coat, helmet, gauntlets, and scabbard of his sword. Of exceptional beauty are the richly colored stain glass windows. The subjects deal almost exclusively with the miracles supposed to have been wrought at the shrine. At the extreme end of the Cathedral was to be seen Becket’s crown. Close by is the memorial to Archbishop Temple, who died on December 23, 1902. The kneeling figure is said to be an extraordinarily likeness of the Archbishop. Coming through one of the passages leading to the cloisters we passed a recess in the wall where a large Bible was chained.

Our next visit was to the cloisters which form a square with sides 144 feet deep. There are eight boys on each side. Coming through the door of the northwest corner Becket walked toward the Cathedral on the evening of his death. Among many others buried in the cloisters are Archbishop Temple and Dean Farrar, whose “Life of Christ” is probably the most interesting ever written. Leaving the cloisters we passed into the crypt. Here the Black Prince left a memorial of his marriage to his cousin, Joan, in the shape of a beautiful chapel on whose vaulting may be traced his coat of arms. On one of the large pillars we were shown a dark shadow which is supposed to be the ghost of Thomas A. Becket. We next visited a place underneath, which is used as a French chapel. The guide taking us around brought us to the iron gates, where we were met by another party ready to start. Coming back to the nave I could not refrain from standing and gazing intently at the huge columns and the roof, which was decorated with coats of arms and shields.

An English Landscape

Passing through the gateway to the old market place and on in the station, seated in the carriage and looking out of the window on my way back to camp, the thought that impressed me most was that after all there is nothing to compare with the variety and color of an English landscape. You have walls of between three and four hundred years old, which only time could have painted. The winding lanes have unexpected lines of changing beauty. In a new country the houses are like each other. In an old country there are so many different styles and shapes that you wonder how it is possible for them to have been invented. The dignity and beauty of rural life and scenery in England probably surpasses anything that can be seen in other countries. If the people at war with England cold only see the kindly courteous people who live there, any lingering doubts in their minds that England is out for conquest in this war, or any other motive than fighting for the freedom of the world would be removed. It would be a great pity if this war should produce anything that will do away with the chivalry and magnanimity of the English people. Arriving at camp, where the scenery is so different I felt that I had spent one of the most profitable and most interesting days, the day at Canterbury on the third anniversary of the war. The memory of these peaceful scenes will linger long after the war is ended.

Pte. I. Hewitson
215th Battalion